Monday, 11 April 2016

Holiday in Cambodia

When the Dead Kennedys released their iconic (but controversial) anthem 'Holiday in Cambodia' in 1980 it suggested Cambodia was not the place to visit, even for spoilt US college kids.

We weren't quite sure what to expect - yes, everyone knows about Angkor Wat - more on that later - Pol Pot and The Killing Fields, but we knew there would be more to it.

Cambodia's population stands at 15 million which is pretty small compared to its neighbours and is about the size of Ireland.  It's growing at a rapid rate, but the impact of the Pol Pot regime has left a legacy they are trying hard to overcome.  The regime killed a THIRD of the population between 1976 to 1979.  What is more it was targeted at the rich, religious and educated so it also meant they lost their money, teachers, historians and monks.

It has left many citizens scarred physically - this musical group consisted of people who had injuries from land mines.  They have removed 3 MILLION land mines and unexploded objects (UXO) and estimate the same number remain.

The injured musical band - still very talented
There were subsequent annexures to Vietnam, splits in the country and at one point both Russia and China were controlling opposing parts of the country.  And of course like neighbouring Vietnam and Laos they had been part of France's Indo-Chine for a period in the 19th and 20th centuries.  The Kymer language shares much with its border countries all derived from Sanskrit, although the Vietnamese script was changed to a Latin format by the French.

It's long road to recovery and they are well aware that health and education need some work and are not proud they rank 150 (and steady) out of 168 countries listed on the 2015 'World Transparency Index' of countries affected by corruption.  Australia's 13th BTW.

They receive foreign aid from a myriad of countries: the recently opened 'Angkor Panorama Museum' was funded, for example, by the North Korean Government (number 167 on the corruption index).

Having said that, we felt very safe and whilst we were hassled by hawkers, that is to be expected at high tourist areas in a country where the average annual income is about $USD1300.  The people - over 90% Buddhist - are charming, polite, cheerful and helpful.  It is considered bad form to raise your voice or argue in public.  A lesson for us all I guess.

Agriculture remains the principle occupation and most people live outside the main cities in basic traditional housing.  Textile production is next, with tourism a rapidly expanding third.
A typical village compound
Cambodia these days attracts nearly 5 million visitors a year these days and 85% are there to visit the Angkor World Heritage site via the regional city of Siem Reap.
Siem Reap airport - the start of the Angkor World Heritage site

Siem Reap in itself is not that pretty.  Functional maybe with many small stall holders
A typical stall - red plastic chairs de rigueur
and transport and electrical wiring that would leave health and safety experts agog.

Dodgy wiring and tuk tuks - transport for all

The speed limit is 50kms per hour - with the suspect roads and scooter and motorbike traffic, that's pretty fair.

Some marriages are still arranged; dowries are now in US$, and the prized water buffalo are worth about $US600 each.
Here's your dowry!
Our hotel, the Borei Angkor was just lovely

The foyer at Borei Resort Hotel

and we certainly found the Kymer food pretty special.
This was just Candy's main course!
There's bit of noise as they're about to celebrate the Kymer New Year and the colourful decorations are everywhere.
Happy New Year - Cambodian style


Next time - the monuments.  Just wow!

2 comments:

  1. Very interesting - enjoying the entries so far!

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  2. Re your comments about the Khmer Rouge targeting the educated - being a bit of a language buff I noticed how French was pretty much absent as far as I could tell. There were photos of Jackie Kennedy's visit in the early 60s at our hotel, as she stayed there. I noticed she was riding in an open car with license plates 'Etat'. The government vehicles now have 'State' on their plates. Seems they have eagerly embraced English as their foreign language of choice with French largely forgotten.

    I did ask our hosts about this. While I had earlier been told in Vietnam that only a few old people still speak French, it seems the story in Cambodia is much grimmer than one foreign language gradually being replaced by an ascendant new one: being literate in your own language (evidenced by wearing glasses) was often enough to get you killed under the KR, let alone being fluent in a foreign tongue! With exceptions made for KR leaders of course, many of whom had studied at the Sorbonne and elsewhere in France.

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