Malaysia: Malacca and Penang

We explored these two iconic destinations on consecutive days – so similar yet so different...

Malacca

Malacca, or now Melaka in the local Bahasa Malay language is the older and more historic port – and had more tourists.  Apparently it’s named after a tree.

It was a 2 hour drive from Port Klang (Kuala Lumpur’s port) along the romantically named North South Expressway and faces the strategic Malacca straits - for centuries a centre for both pirates and seafarer’s battles. We must have passed two billion Palm Oil trees, now grown responsibly and mulched rather than burned according to our guide. It is seen as a modern city and promoted as such by the government.

Don't mess with Malacca/Melaka

Malaysia has emerged as a well-educatedand developed country proud of its progress beyond the colonial past with low unemployment and much to encourage the younger generation to stay and develop the country further.  Unemployment stands at about 3% and there are tax breaks for low income earners (under $A400 per month) and for those who buy locally produced cars.  We saw plenty of Beemers and Mercs, though.

The Portuguese arrived in Malacca in 1511, were ousted by the Dutch in 1662, the British in 1795 and the Japanese in 1942.  The Federation of Malaysia was formed in 1963.  Elements of all these cultures remain – though the Japanese tenure was very brief.

Catholic Church from 1710

Malacca, like Penang has a UNESCO World Heritage listing based around its unique mixture of Malay, Portuguese, Dutch and British colonisation – and the Nyonya Baba culture: the mixture these races created.  Nyonya food – a blend of the best of Malay and Chinese cuisine is popular in Australia.  There’s also Chitty (Chinese/Indian) but for some reason hasn’t quite taken on as well.

We strolled down Jonker Street and grabbed some food, but I suspect it would have been livelier at night.  The distinctive shop-houses are narrow and long as they were subject to taxation based on house width, and window and door taxes.

Jonker St Malacca

Malacca wa one known as the Venice of the East

Dutch and British influence in Malacca

Chitty transport - very tasteful

 George Town, Penang

George Town, the principal city of the Malasian Island of Penang was established by the British captain Francis Light in 1786 and named after George II, the British monarch of the day.

Australians have an affiliation here as the Butterworth airbase, manned by up to 4,000 Australian airforce personnel and their families from the 1960s to 80s, is just across on the mainland - now connected by bridge, but previously it was ferry only.  200 personnel remain for regional training purposes.

Useless trivia #2.  George Town is the only place known with a railway station but no railway.  You buy a ticket at the Penang Railway Station, catch a ferry to the mainland, then hop on the train.

St George's Church built 1818

 Unlike the rest of Malaysia, the Chinese is the majority race, although by law, should they choose to marry a Malay person, they must convert to Islam.  Schooling in Malaysia is divided by ethnic groups  in which each of the three major groups of Malays, Hindu and Chinese follow the same curriculum but in different languages.  The lingua franca of the area is known as Manglish.

The very well off Khoo family compound in George Town was open for our visit; although still owned by the trustees of this now very large family, most live elsewhere, including Australia.

The incredicly eleaborate late 19th C Khoo family compound, Penang

 Education is extremely important in Chinese culture; the Khoo family made no exception - the results are on public display - I don't think failure is an option.

Khoo family 'honour board'

 Penang was an early British colonial destination of refined pleasure - beach is quite lovely and the breezes welcome.  The Sarkies Brothers of Raffles Singapore fame also established the Eastern and Oriental Hotel (E&O to the locals) where we had lunch - and tea, of course.

Elegant E & O Hotel on the beach, Penang

Doorman in pith helmet at the E & O

 For both Malacca and George Town to maintain their UNESCO Heritage listings - and funding - they must restore the historic buildings - some of this is still underway

A work in progress?