Ambassadors for Burma

In Rangoon with Kan Daw Gyi lake and Shwedagon pagoda in the background

At 55 million people, Burma remains one of the more forgotten places in South East Asia.  Yet it is the largest, richest in terms of natural resources and most ethnically diverse with around 135 different groups.  Since 2007 its capital is Naypyidaw (rolls off the tongue) which has replaced Rangoon (Yangon), the commercial capital. There is a chance Myanmar will be renamed Burma formally and Yangon Rangoon, but because of the billions spent on establishing the new capital at the whim of the then government, the new capital will not change.

Due to the political turmoil that has wracked the country over the last 50 years, many decisions made beggar belief.  An example is the decision to change from driving on the left hand side of the road to the right in 1968, taking effect in 1970.  This was due to advice given to the country's then leader General Ne Win by his astrologist that he would live longer if it was changed.  The General lived to 93, but most of the vehicles on the road are Japanese imports fitted for left hand drive.  Chaos anyone?  Buses need to have a 'look out' person as well as a driver.

Japanese car imports all right hand drive waiting for their new home in a left hand drive country

Nobel peace prize winner Aung San Suu Kyi’s history is well known but for decades it was forbidden to mention her name for fear of reprisal – she was known as ‘The Lady’.  She is currently the powerful advisor to the President – although she is unable under the Constitution to be President herself as her children have foreign passports.

Theravada Buddhism is a mainstay of life in Burma

Buddhist monk in Rangoon

and each boy (and girls if they choose) must enter a monastery at least once in their life and this can be as early as 7 years of age.  We were fortunate enough to witness a novication (initiation of novices) ceremony

Novication ceremony at the Shwedagon pagoda

and be part of monastic life by attending a meditation ceremony plus be part of a presentation of donations to the monks and novices in the town of Thanlyin.

Monk accepting a donation from Paul

Buddhism also dominates the architecture and most famous is the Shwedagon gold pagoda in central Rangoon.  It is covered in 60 TONS of gold and is topped at its 100 metre spike with a 76 carat diamond.  It is astonishing in its richness and its importance to the local community. 

Some passengers observed that the wealth lavished on it could be better spent on the community in general, however the numbers of visitors to the site every day indicate the richness they derive from its presence will be felt for generations.  It dates to 2600 years ago according to legend however it has been added to many times since that date.  Our guide informed us that a UNESCO Heritage Listing for it had failed as the local population were reluctant to allow the research into its history due to the sacredness of the site.  The days of the week people are born are important to its adherents and we gave offerings in our respective ‘corners’.

A giant reclining Buddha

Like some neighbouring countries, Burma was a British colony from 1885 to 1948.  Unlike its neighbours, Burma chose to sever all ties with Britain with independence choosing not to become a member of the British Commonwealth and cricket is not played.  Some British buildings remain: the Strand Hotel, formerly a Sarkies Brothers' hotel like the Raffles and E&O in Penang has been beautifully restored - no swimming pool, extra modern wings etc.

The beautifully restored Strand Hotel, Rangoon.  Home of the memorable 'Strand Sour' cocktail

But the Strand Sour - a drink to rival the Singapore Sling remains.  We saw a magical traditional marionette show in the ballroom.

Traditional Burmese marionettes

And the country also suffered tremendous losses to the Japanese during WW2 from March 1942 to July 1945 - some ancient buildings we never rebuilt.

A none too beautiful housing complex, Rangoon

Other colonial buildings have not fared as well and will probably be restored as Hotels - with swimming pools.

Shell of a colonial building awaiting restoration

Burmese people are catching up with technology – a SIM card now costs $1 compared to $1500 five years ago.  They are happy, generous people who are optimistic about their future and are keen to overcome the horrors of the past.   There is a long way to go – infrastructure is poor, education limited and is neither free nor compulsory.  Wages are low but the natural resources the country has in oil, gas, precious stones and teak will augur well for its future, if managed well.  Housing remains basic and 75% of the population rely on subsistence farming for their livelihood. 

Typical farmhouse and rice paddy - no irrigation so just one crop a year

Just about everyone wears the traditional dress of a sarong like garment called a longyi.

Paul with our (highly entertaining) guide Giovanni who's wearing a traditional longyi. Why a guide has an Italian name is too long a story to tell here.

The lifeblood of the country is the enormous Irrawaddy River (The Road to Mandalay in Kipling parlance; there are no flying fishes BTW) which flows north south from the Himalayas to the Andaman Sea/Bay of Bengal.  It is hoped a dam planned on the river to supply power to China can be overturned before it cuts the country in half.

Ambassadors to Burma?  We were asked to take back to our respective countries the positive aspects of Burmese life: the food, the culture, the amazing architecture and the warmth of the people.  Tourist numbers are low, but they would love others to experience their land before it becomes too commercialised – we would love to return.